Getting Started- Sewing Tools Checklist

Whether you have just begun sewing or you are coming back to sharpen up rusty skills, you may be wondering, do I have everything I need? We’re going to run through the basic sewing tools- along with an explanation of why they are important. If you’re in a pinch (or on a budget) ,you can get by without this entire list.

If the sum total of your sewing tools includes a pair of scissors from the kitchen junk drawer, a rusty needle you keep around to dig out slivers, and a roll of duct tape... you have a little shopping to do. The quality and type of tools you use for home decor sewing can make the difference between a project that was fun to make and you're proud to display, and one you feel like hurling out the window. 

Sewing tools, like pins, needles, tape measures and stuff, are also called "notions." So, the next time you're in a fabric store searching for something, look for the giant sign that says "NOTIONS," and you'll be headed in the right direction. The variety of tools to choose from today is incredible, but can also be a little mind boggling. As we explain in our article on shopping for and buying a sewing machine, the tools you choose to use are important to both achieving a professional finish and not getting frustrated.

There are five main categories of tools: Measuring, Marking, Cutting, Pressing and Sewing.

Measuring

One of the first steps in many projects involves Measuring. The more accurate your measurements, the better the end results. The carpenter's words of wisdom: "Measure twice, cut once" are just as important for sewing. Here are the basics you should have:

• See-through rulers: A transparent ruler lets you see what you're measuring and gives you accurate horizontal and vertical lines. You'll also need the hard, straight edge for cutting with a rotary cutter. These range from cheap to very expensive; get as large a variety of sizes as you can afford.
• Tape measure: The classic sewing notion. Get one that is flexible but not stretchy. You'll use it for measuring pillow forms, aligning patterns and more.
• Seam gauge: This handy little fella is a small ruler (usually 6 inches total) with a double-pointed, sliding guide. It's great for marking seam allowances and hems or anywhere you need to set and then repeatedly check a small measurement.

Marking

Being able to draw a straight line to follow or indicate the exact spot for a button means Marking on your fabric. Sounds scary, right? Only if you're considering using a Sharpie. There are special tools just for marking on fabric. Here are ones you should have:

• Pens: Think of these like those invisible ink pens the secret agents use. They're designed with either air-soluble or water-soluble ink so you can make temporary lines and dots on your fabric. Air-soluble means the marks eventually just disappear. Water-soluble means you need to wash away the marks with water. Test the pen on a scrap of the actual fabric you're using to be sure of the results, and always read the package directions. Sometimes heat can permanently set a mark.
• Chalk: Not for blackboards or sidewalks, this chalk is formulated for fabric and is very easy to remove. It comes as a handy pencil; a solid rectangle or square, which gives you nice hard edges for long marks; and as powder inside a refillable tube with a little roller wheel at the tip, which is easy to handle, very precise and mess-proof.

Cutting

Remember when your mom yelled at you for using her "good scissors"? Now you'll understand. Sharp, precise Cutting tools are very important. Once you have your favorites, don't use them for anything but sewing! No paper cutting, clipping the dog's toenails or trimming the shrubbery. You should look for:

• Scissors and shears: There are literally dozens of styles to choose from, many specialized for specific tasks. To start, get yourself a good pair of 8" bent dressmaker shears for fabric cutting. They should have a bend of about 45˚ at the pivot point. You'll also want a nice pair of sewing scissors – these are smaller, usually about 6" blades without a bend. You'll use these at your machine for clipping threads, trimming seams and such. Don't skimp on these tools. Buy the best scissors you can afford.
• Rotary cutters: These are nifty for curves, long slices, and exact cuts against a straight edge (remember those see-through rulers above). They work just like a pizza cutter and many people prefer them to scissors. Two things to remember: a) always use rotary cutters on a cutting mat or you could cut right through your fabric and down into your work surface, and b) these blades are sharp; always cover and lock the blade when not in use.
• Seam ripper: The seam ripper is your friend. The sharp point slides under the stitches of a seam and a mini curved bade cuts the individual threads. Voila´... do over!
• Cutting mats: As mentioned above, using a protective surface to do your cutting is always a good idea. Cutting mats come in all sizes, from 12" x 18" for things like little squares and triangles to giant 3' x 4' and beyond that can cover an entire table. They are normally made of tough plastic and have pre-printed grid lines that can help you line-up your fabric and make nice, straight cuts. The larger mats usually roll up for storage. There are even some options that are a cutting mat on one side and a pressing mat on the other, and other types that spin on a turntable. How cool is that?

Pressing

If you want your home decor to look professional you gotta apply a little pressure. Well-pressed seams are what give a project those wonderful crisp, clean edges. And don't we all love to erase wrinkles?! For proper Pressing make sure you have:

• Steam iron: Get a good one. If you have an old one that doesn't heat up well or dribbles water, get a new one. Look for one that lets you control the amount of steam: from none to a big blast o' heat and spray.
• Ironing board: These come in all sizes; choose the one that will be best for your working area and you. Some folks like to stand at a traditional ironing board, others prefer a portable style, and some people like ironing pads. You want a surface that is firm and sturdy, padded well, and cotton covered.
• Rolls and hams: No, we haven't suddenly switched to cooking class. Pressing rolls and pressing hams are handy three-dimensional fabric stuffed shapes that help you iron curves and other hard-to-reach areas.
• Pressing cloths: Some types of fabric have a tendency to shine if heat is applied directly; a pressing cloth can help prevent that. Choose a cloth made from natural fiber like cotton or wool, or make your own.

Sewing

Needles, pins and thread - oh, my. There are probably more choices in this category than any other. But don't despair. Choose quality and don't over-buy to start with. You'll develop preferences as you go, so start with the simple, tried and true:

•  Sewing machine needles: The rule of thumb is to start every new project with a new needle. It's like sharpening your pencil before you write. There are dozens of kinds and they relate to the type of fabric you'll be sewing on. The most common are: Universal needles for woven fabrics and most knits. For home decor, this will be your choice the majority of the time. Stretch needles have a rounder point to spread the knit fibers apart rather than piercing them. Sharp needles are the exact opposite; they have a sharper point that can pierce tightly woven fabrics like denim. The needle size is given with two numbers, such as 75/11 or 80/12; the first number is a European designation, the second is American. For a lightweight fabric, choose a small number (e.g. 70/10); for a heavy fabric, choose a large number (e.g. 90/14).

• Hand sewing needles: The rules for hand sewing needles are similar to machine needles. The main difference is that the eye is at the top of the needle and the point is at the bottom, whereas a machine needle has both the eye and the point at the bottom. Look for a variety pack of hand sewing needles that gives you a selection of point styles and eye sizes.

• Needle threader: If you can see to thread a needle, more power to you! However, if looking for the eye of a needle is like looking for a needle in a haystack, you should get a needle threader. They are super cheap and consist of a thin wire loop on a fob. Insert the loop through the eye, thread this much larger and easier-to-see loop, then pull it back through the eye. You can use this for hand or machine needles.

• Thread: For most home decor projects, all-purpose thread in your top spool and bobbin is your best bet. Color coordinate to blend into your fabric or choose a contrasting color if you want a top-stitching effect.

• Pins and pincushions: Get steel straight pins with the colored balls on the top. They're easier to insert, see and pick up when you spill them all over the floor. A magnetic pin dish is great to hold your entire collection. Then, keep a stuffed pincushion next to your machine to hold a few pins while you're working. The classic tomato-shaped pincushion is great, and there are also pincushions you wear right on your wrist – very handy.