Citrus Holiday: In-a-Word Pillow

There's one in every family. The helpful host/hostess who just won't rest – always rushing around to make sure everyone else is in tip-top shape. You know who I mean, don't you? This special holiday pillow is for that special holiday someone. Toss it his or her way and demand they 'SIT!' Bold red letter appliqués and matching red piping make a statement even Helpful Hannah (or Hank) will have to stop and pay attention to. The pillow is reversible, so when they pop up again to refill your glass, you can flip it over and try again later.

We provide you with an entire alphabet of letters to download and print. So, if "SIT!" isn't right for you, how about: "HAPPY" or "PEACE" or "ANGEL" or even "SANTA". Then, there's my personal holiday favorite: "QUIET!"

Our Citrus Holiday projects were made using Heather Bailey's delightful Pop Garden & Bijoux Collection. To learn more about how we created this non-traditional holiday palette, read our article Citrus Holiday: A Lighthearted Living Room.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC4030)
• Zipper foot (optional but recommended)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• Fabric for pillow front panel: ½ yard of 45" width fabric: we used Heather Bailey's Pop Garden & Bijoux Mod Bead in Canary
• Fabric for pillow back panels: ½ yard of 45" width fabric: we used Heather Bailey's Pop Garden & Bijoux Pop Garden Daisy in Cream
• Fabric for lettering and piping: ½ yard of 45" width fabric: we used a wine red cotton sateen
• Lightweight fusible interfacing for lettering: ¼ yard of 45" wide fusing
• 2¼ yards of ¼" diameter cording for inside of piping
• 12" x 22" pillow insert or a pillow filler (like Polyfil)
• All purpose thread for seams
• Matching thread to lettering fabric for zig zag embroidery stitch around letters
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started

Cut your fabric

1. From the fabric you're using for your pillow front (Mod Bead in Canary in our sample), cut one rectangle 13" x 23".
2. From the fabric you're using for your pillow back (Pop Garden Daisy in Cream in our sample), cut one rectangle 13" x 23".
3. From the fabric you're using for piping (red sateen in our sample) cut two strips 1½" x 40".

Make your letters

1. Decide what you'd like your Word Pillow to say. Then, using the provided pattern downloads of alphabet monogram letters, print out the file(s), cut out the letter(s) you would like around their outside lines, and set aside. We've also provided one pattern download, with exclamation point, for our exact SIT! sample.
   A-F Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
   G-L Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
   M-R Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
   S-W Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
   X-Z (plus some punctuation) Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
   SIT! Letters Pattern DOWNLOAD
2. For each monogram letter you desire, cut out a small square of the fusible interfacing 2½" wide x by 2½" high, and fuse this square to the WRONG side of the fabric you are using for the monogram letters (red sateen in our sample). Cut out this newly fused 2 ½" fabric square. The fusing will make the letter stiffer, and therefore, it's much easier to work with than plain, limp fabric
3. Place the pre-cut paper letter pattern onto the RIGHT side of a fused fabric square, trace around the letter with a fabric pencil or pen, then cut out the fabric letter. Repeat for each letter you need.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Stitch down your word(s)

1. Using your ruler, very carefully line up your pre-cut fabric letters in the middle on the right side of your pillow front fabric piece. Make sure the tops and the bottoms of all the letters are even and the space between letters is equal.
2. Carefully pin all your letters in place.
3. Using a matching thread color to the fabric letter color, appliqué around the outer edges of each cut-out letter using a short-stitch-length zig zag stitch. Be sure the width of the zig-zag is wide enough to secure the raw edges of the cut-out letter to the pillow front. Go slowly! Appliquéing a more intricate shape, such as these letters, is a more advanced technique than appliquéing a simple circle or square. Stop as often as you need to, with your needle in the DOWN position, and adjust your fabric so you are stitching in as straight a line as possible. You might want to practice on a scrap piece of fabric if you are new to appliqué.
4. Set aside your completed pillow front.
   

Make and attach piping

1. Take your two 1½" x 40" red sateen strips and sew them together along the 1½" sides, using a ½" seam allowance, to make one long, continuous 1½" x 80" band.
2. Create approximately 80" of piping. If you are new to piping, refer to our tutorial: How To Make And Attach Your Own Piping.
   
   
3. Pin your piping around the entire outside edge of the pillow front piece, matching raw edges. Clip to ease around each corner and leave approximate 1" tails for finishing.
4. Sew piping to pillow front, using a ½" seam allowance. Sew slowly and carefully. We highly recommend a zipper foot to allow you to stay close to your piping.
5. Trim and wrap to finish the point where the two ends meet.
   
   
6. Piping is easier than it looks; it just takes a bit of practice. The main thing to remember is it's a two-step process. You have to first stitch the piping to the edge of the pillow front. Then, when you sew front to back, you're sandwiching the piping in the final seam and it will "pop out" when you turn the pillow cover right side out.
7. Again, if you are new to making or attaching piping, read our tutorial: How To Make And Attach Your Own Piping.

Finish the pillow

1. With right sides together, and sandwiching the piping in between, stitch the pillow back to the pillow front. Use a ½" seam and stitch with the wrong side of the pillow FRONT facing up. This way, you can stitch along the exact same stitching line you used to secure the piping to the pillow front. Again, a zipper foot is helpful.
2. Using a ½" seam allowance and starting about 1" - 2" from the corner of one side, sew to the first corner, pivot, sew completely around the next three sides, pivot at the fourth and final corner, sew about 1" - 2" and stop.
3. You are stopping, because on this fourth side, you need to leave an opening just large enough to insert your pillow form or filler. About 8" - 9" should be big enough.
   
4. Clip corners and turn your pillow cover right side out. The piping will pop out and make a pretty edge all around. Push out the trimmed corners from the inside to make nice, square corners on the outside. Use your finger or a blunt-edge tool, like a large knitting needle.
5. Press the seams flat. Remember, the edges of the opening should be pressed so they fold in to match the stitched edge.
6. Insert your pillow form or filler and fluff out the corners of the pillow evenly.
7. Hand stitch the 8" - 9" opening closed with a slip stitch.

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Heather Tucker

Other machines suitable for this project include the Pfaff hobby 1142 and the White Sew Easy 2335.

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Quick Tip: 1/4" Double-Turn Clean Finished Corner

Finishing the corners when you're making a narrow hem can be a challenge. Making a perfect 90˚ fold at each corner is one option, and often will work just fine. However, it can be tough to keep your raw edges tucked in, and bulky or slippery fabrics can cause you fits. Instead, try our Quick Tip: nine, simple steps to a clean finished corner.

This sample was made for a napkin project, but you can use it anytime you need a narrow hemmed corner.

1. Along all edges, turn right side under 1/4" and press well.
2. Turn another 1/4" all around and press well.
3. Unfold both 1/4" turns so your fabric lays flat. You should be able to see the fold lines of both turns.
   
4. Fold corner at a 45˚ angle so the point of the corner lines up with the intersection of the second set of fold lines. Press.
   
5. Fold corner a second time, again at a 45˚ angle. Press.
   
6. Re-fold your first 1/4" turn along its original fold lines and press well.
   
7. Refold along your second set of 1/4" fold lines and press. If you've been careful with your measurements, turns and pressing, this second re-fold will create a diagonal line where your two finished edged meet, making a neat split corner.
   
8. Edgestitch around all folded edges, back-tacking two to three stitches at each corner. Make sure your back-tacking cross over the split corner to help this split say closed.
   
9. Press from the front to finish.
    

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Citrus Holiday: Easy Napkins with Festive Trim

Adding a simple fabric border kicks this napkin up a notch. Napkins are a great beginning project and a great way to practice hemming. We made all our napkins match for our Citrus Holiday table, but it would also be snazzy to do a different, coordinating trim on each person's napkin. Not only would it be a great way to use up fabric scraps, you could also keep track of which napkin belongs to which guest.

Our Citrus Holiday projects were made using Heather Bailey's delightful Pop Garden & Bijoux Collection. To learn more about how we created this non-traditional holiday palette, read our article: Citrus Holiday: Christmas Dining Room.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 3128)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• Fabric for SIX napkins: 1¾ yards of 45" wide fabric: we used a cream colored cotton sateen fabric
• Fabric for SIX napkin trim pieces: ½ yard of 45" wide fabric: we used Heather Bailey's Bijoux in Tiled Primrose Pink
  Note: you could squeak by with ¼ yard, but you'd have to cut very carefully. Having a ½ yard gives you a little breathing room; plus, many online fabric sources have a ½ yard minimum cut.
• All purpose thread
• Contrasting color thread for topstitching, slightly darker than napkin color
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Hand sewing needle
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started

1. Use your see-through ruler and pencil to draw six 21" x 21" squares onto the fabric you are using for the napkin. Cut along drawn lines.
   
2. Use your see-through ruler and pencil to draw six rectangles 21" long and 3" wide onto the fabric you are using for the napkin trim. Cut along drawn lines.
   

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

1. Along ONE of the 21" lengthwise edges on EACH of the six napkin trim pieces, fold under ½" and press.
   
2. Pin this trim piece to the bottom of the napkin, so the side and bottom raw edges line up, and the folded-in edge lays across the face of the napkin.
3. Edgestitch around all 4 edges of the rectangular trim piece. This adheres the finished folded edge to the napkin's face and secures the raw edges so they will be easier to hem.
   
4. Create a hem around all four edges of the napkin by folding the right side of the fabric under ¼" along all four sides, pressing, and then folding under another ¼" along all 4 sides and pressing again. This makes a clean, 'double-turn' edge all around. For more information on hemming, read our tutorial: How to Make a Simple Hem.
5. Change your thread to the contrasting color and topstitch around all four sides. Stay just under ¼" from your folded edge. Sew slowly, making sure you catch the folded hem on the back. To keep your corners sharp, work with your needle in the down position and pivot. When you get to a corner and are about to turn to topstitch the next edge, stop with the needle down through the fabric, lift the presser foot, and turn the napkin to line up the next edge, using the needle as a pivot point.
   
6. You can make a simple square corner or for a cleaner finish, read our tutorial:
7. Finished napkin will be 20" x 20" square.

Contributors 
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation & Instructions: Gregory Dickson

Other machines suitable for this project include the Bernina activa 210 and the Husqvarna Viking Scandinavia 100.

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Citrus Holiday: Napkin Ties with Letter Bead Names

What a fun alternative to place cards. At the end of the meal, everyone can detach their beads and use them as bookmarks, bracelets or hang them from a keychain. The napkin ties themselves are quick to make and accent the red band in our Lemon-Zest Tablecloth beautifully.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Jem Gold 3)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• Fabric for ties: 1/2 yard (you need exactly 18 inches) of 45" wide red fabric. This will yield TEN ties: we made six for our table.
• One skein of embroidery floss in red
• One 5/8" white button PER TIE
• Letter beads: Make a list of names and count the number of each letter that you need. Count them again, just to be sure. You can also find bags of letter beads containing several full alphabets... still, one bag may not be enough, so count.
• All purpose thread in red
• Iron and ironing board
• Embroidery needle
• Hand sewing needle
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started

1. Download the Napkin Tie Pattern PDF file and print at 100% (do not allow your PDF reader or printer to scale the image).
2. Cut the desired number of ties by pinning your Napkin Tie Pattern onto your folded fabric as shown in the cutting guide. We made 6 ties, but you can make up to 10 with the fabric specified.
   
3. Cut 2 tiny notches on one layer of the fabric where indicated by dots on the seam line (DO NOT cut through seam line) .
4. Remove the pattern and open your tie. It will look like this:
   

Make the Letter Bead Ties

1. Thread your embroidery needle with embroidery floss and tie a knot in the floss about 3/4" inch from the end of the floss.
2. For each name, string your letter beads onto your floss starting with the last letter of the name and working forward to the first letter. It's easier if you have them all written down to look at.
   
3. Tie another knot above the last letter bead you added to the floss. Before tightening the knot, slip your needle into the knot and gently slide the knot down towards the bead so the beads are contained nicely (not too tight) between the two knots.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

1. Fold your tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin. Stitch using a 1/4-inch seam from dot to dot, leaving the space between the dots open. Be sure to secure your thread at the dots with a back tack or locking stitch.
   
2. Clip corners.
   
3. Turn the tie right side out. Use a knitting needle or chopstick to help you gently push out the corners to a nice point.
   
4. Press tie flat.
5. Using a hand sewing needle, slip stitch the small opening closed.
6. Fold tie in half to find the exact center where you will sew on a button. Mark with a pin.
7. Sew on button.
   
8. Tie the floss around the base of the button and trim off any excess.
   

Hints and Tips

Now you're ready to wrap your tie around your napkin. Simply tie the napkin tie on the backside of the napkin or wrap it without tying.

Letter beads are available at craft and beading stores. We found our beads at Fusion Beads for 10 cents a bead.

Other machines suitable for this project include the Bernina activa 240, Pfaff hobby 1122.

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Citrus Holiday: Setting a Citrus-Themed Table

A beautifully set holiday table needn't be expensive. Our simple Citrus Holiday table is proof. We used fresh citrus fruits: lemons, limes, key limes, oranges, grapefruit, and clementines. And, since everyone has their own accumulation of holiday decor, S4H editor, Liz Johnson and I decided to take the Citrus Holiday challenge and use ONLY our own personal collections to decorate the dining room.

Most families have some vintage decorations passed down over the years, and quite a few of the newer pieces we all accumulate. This eclectic mix is always unique, and with a little thought, can add a lively spirit to your table -- not to mention stirring memories and inspiring conversation. Everything you see on the buffet and table came either from my personal stash or that of S4H Chief Editor, Liz Johnson's. We used our citrus theme to help narrow down a surprising amount of good possibilities. It's a forgiving palette because you can use orange, yellow, lime, green, pink, red, black, ivory or white with accents in gold and/or silver. Here's what we found. We hope it inspires you to try this for yourself.

Plan Your Table

Figure out how much space you'll have on the dining table and buffet for decor:

• Count the number of people you'll be hosting and think about what you will serve. Then you'll know how many place settings and serving pieces are needed and how much space you have to decorate. We planned a Christmas morning breakfast for six, but you may choose to plan an evening or afternoon meal.
• Decide whether to use a table runner and placemats, a tablecloth; or as in our case, a table cloth with placemats on the dining table and a table runner on the buffet. For me, a special day calls for a tablecloth. Get cookin' on your sewing projects so they're finished before the holidays are actually upon you.
• Pick your dinnerware. If you have a choice, go with a white or an off-white place setting. We used a 40-year-old set of Noritake that was in remarkably good condition.

• We chose a set of newer silver chargers that looked great with the dinnerware.
• Most any silver/stainless flatware will look great.
• Glassware is easy as well -- clear glass or crystal adds a lovely sparkle on the table. We served champagne for our breakfast in beautiful, sparkly Waterford Crystal Millennium toasting flutes. We added some vintage reindeer juice glasses circa 1950-60. Quite a mix, but we loved the result.

Serving Pieces

This is easy because so many things work. Clear glass, any citrus colored glass or red glass. Ditto for pottery bowls and baskets. We selected a number of pieces of limey-green vaseline glass to hold our citrus fruit. The vaseline glass is from my personal collection and it harks back to the turn of the last century. Vaseline glass has a lovely glow in the ultraviolet of sunlight (and really fluoresces under black light). In keeping with our minimal red accent, we chose a single ruby red 1960ish Fostoria coin glass compote.

Add Accent Pieces

Look for a balance in size when choosing accent pieces. For example, you might have one focal piece, several medium-size pieces and a larger group of smaller pieces. Groups tend to look better in odd numbers. Keep the placement organic as opposed to rigid. Remember the importance of mood lighting. Add candles in white or citrus colors. Look for sales on candles -- often the citrus colors go on sale at the end of the summer season.

The Buffet

We chose a circa 1880 Meriden Britannia silver coffee urn as the focal point for the buffet. Not everyday-useful, but striking. Also on the buffet, a modern fabric and straw santa and a dried floral arrangement to cap the ends. We added two vintage cookie jars; Frosty the Snowman by Robinson-Ransbottom Pottery Co., and Santa by the American Bisque Company. With all of the little hands lifting the lid, how ceramic cookie jars survive for 60 years is beyond me, but these two did. For smaller accents; a collection of little 1950's Christmas figurines. These were very common decorations of the time and were sold for about a quarter in dime stores. Most were made in Japan. Those that survive are considered quite collectible now and sell for about 100 times (or more) what they originally cost. We put the red ones on the buffet and saved the white ones for the table.

The Dining Table

We used the cheery bowls of citrus fruit as our main table decor. Buy an abundance of citrus fruits a couple days ahead and refrigerate. Side benefit: healthy snacks. We accented the fruit and the table with some greenery -- you can use garland and fresh or artifical greens. We use laurel leaves which look somewhat like citrus leaves. You can also use fir or pine branches for the wonderful scent. Rinse and let dry overnight before putting on your tablecloth. Serpentine the leaves down the center of the table and stick some leaves between the fruit in the bowls as well. We added in the remaining white caroler figurines.

Other Options

Our table decor was fast to assemble and cost next to nothing. What you have to work with will be different, but there are so many terrific ways to mix the old and new.

The Old

• Mica villages -- little houses with cellophane windows, and their companion bottle-brush trees
• Vintage ornaments were often tucked away in attics and left unused in favor of more modern pieces. But now, they're considered very collectible. They look lovely set in little groups on the table or carefully placed in a clear glass bowl.
• Glass bead garlands.
• Small old-time tin toys.
• A collection of little Santas or snowmen
• Snow globes
• Pine cone elves (getting hard to find, so ask Grandma)
• Old Gurley candles. These were popular in the 1950s and surprisingly, they were infrequently burned and instead used as decor year after year.
• Liven up the room with vintage fruit labels. These are still readily available in vintage shops and on Etsy and Ebay.

The New

• Candles and pretty candle holders can be mixed in a variety of sizes to create a warm, inviting atmosphere.
• Dinnerware, glassware, flatware, serving pieces -- glance through what you have. We were surprised at what we found once we started looking.
• Twinkle lights look pretty on the buffet and add a festive sparkle.
• Snip a few greens from your yard to accent the table.
• Newer holiday decor is wonderful by itself, even if you don't have any older pieces.

As we collected our options, we put good candidates on the dining table and buffet and then moved and regrouped pieces until it had a nice feel. You kind of know when it feels right. Will you set a Citrus Holiday table? If so, tell us about it.

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Citrus Holiday: Lemon Zest Tablecloth

Does someone wake you up at o'dark-thirty on Christmas morning?! Then you need a zesty zap of yellow to get you going. This lovely, lemony tablecloth is the perfect foundation for a holiday breakfast feast of waffles, fruit, juice and coffee. The bright yellow is set off with creamy drop panels and it's all tied together with deep crimson bands and bows.

The Citrus Holiday tablecloth is based on our very popular Patio Party: Strips and Stripes Tablecloth. However, this new version sports a dramatic band along each drop panel and the corner bows are big and beautiful.

We've used fashion/quilt weight fabric for our sample because 1) we LOVE this Heather Bailey fabric, and 2) we already have a table pad for our table. If you plan on bringing any hot dishes to your breakfast table, make sure you also have a table pad or a good selection of hot pads and trivets. Otherwise, you might want to substitute a heavier home decor weight fabric.

Our Citrus Holiday projects were made using Heather Bailey's delightful Pop Garden & Bijoux Collection. To learn more about how we created this non-traditional holiday palette, read our article: Citrus Holiday: Christmas Dining Room

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC4030)

Fabric and Other Supplies

Our sample was made for a table measuring 42" wide x 106" long. Measure your rectangular table and adjust amounts as needed.

• Fabric for tablecloth top: 3 yards of 45" wide fabric: we used Heather Bailey's Pop Garden Swirly Buds in Lemon
• Fabric for tablecloth drops: 3 yards of 45" wide fabric: we used a cream cotton sateen fabric
• Fabric for tablecloth bands and corner ties: 1¼ yards of 45" wide fabric: we used a red cotton sateen fabric
• All purpose thread to match all three fabrics
• See-through ruler
• T-square
• Fabric pencil
• Large sheets of lightweight paper for patterns (optional)
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started

Again, remember our sample was made for a table measuring 42" wide x 106" long. Measure your rectangular table and add or subtract inches accordingly to make your cuts. From your table dimensions, you need an extra inch in both width and length to account for the ½"seams.

1. Take the 45" x 108" piece of fabric you are using for the tablecloth top (Swirly Buds Lemon in our sample), and fold it in half to measure 45" x 54". Using the folded edge as one side, draw a rectangle 43" wide x 53½" long. Cut around drawn lines. DO NOT CUT FOLD. For our table measurements, we are using almost the entire piece of fabric; we trimmed just 2" off the width and ½" off the height. When finished cutting, unfold the fabric; your top should measure 43" x 107".
   
2. Take the 45" x 108" piece of fabric you are using for the tablecloth drops (cream cotton sateen in our sample), and fold it in half to measure 45" x 54". Using the folded edge as one side, draw three rectangles: two at 10" wide x 53½" long and one at 10" wide x 43" long. Cut around drawn lines. DO NOT CUT FOLD on the two 10" x 53½" pieces. DO CUT FOLD on the one 10" x 43" piece. You should end up with two pieces that are 10" x 107" and two pieces that are 10" x 43".
   
3. From the fabric for the tablecloth ties and bands (red cotton sateen in our sample), cut EIGHT 2½" x 38" rectangles for the ties, cut SIX 2½" x 36⅓ rectangles for the side bands, and finally, cut TWO 2½" x 43" rectangles for the end bands.
   
4. You could make patterns for the above rectangles using lightweight paper, pin it to your fabric, and cut around the paper. In either case, since these are rather large shapes, we suggest using a ruler and a T-square to make sure your lines and corners are straight. If you've chosen a fabric with a strong, directional design or grain, make sure you keep that straight as well. For more information on grain, read our tutorial: Fabric Grain: Secret to Polished Sewing.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Make side and end panels

1. Thread your machine (top and bobbin) with thread to match the drop panels (cream in our sample).
2. Collect your four drop panels: two at 10" x 107" and two at 10" x 43".
3. Each of these four drop panels needs to be to finished on three sides with a simple double-turn hem. For each piece, turn the right side of the fabric under ¼" and press along ONE long edge and BOTH short edges. After pressing these three edges on each piece, turn them all again another ¼" and edgestitch all around to create your double-turn ¼" hemmed edges. Each of your four drop panels now has three finished edges and one raw edge. Your two side panels now measure 9 1/2" x 106" and your two end panels now measure 9 1/2" x 42".
   
   For more information on hemming, read our tutorials: How to Make a Simple Hem and .

Make bands

1. Thread your machine (top and bobbin) with thread to match the ties and bands (red in our sample).
2. Pin two 2½" x 36⅓ band pieces right sides together along one 2½" edge. Sew them together using a ½" seam allowance.
3. Take a third 2½" x 36⅓ band piece and stitch in the same manner to the two-panel unit you just made to create one three panel unit that measures 2½ x 107". Press all seams open.
4. Fold under ½" all along both short sides and one long side and press. Leave the other long side raw. You now have one long band that measures 2" x 106" with three folded edges.
5. Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 with the remaining 2½" x 36⅓ pieces to create a matching three-unit band for the opposite side.
6. Take the two 2½" x 43" end band pieces; on each, fold under ½" all along both short sides and one long side and press. Leave the other long side raw. You now have two long bands that each measure 2" x 42" with three folded edges.
7. Matching all raw edges, pin the red side band units to the cream side drop panels, and the red end bands to the cream end panels. In each case, the band's folded edge will run horizontally across the panel.
8. Edgestitch along each long folded edge and each long raw edge. LEAVE ALL ENDS OPEN.
   
   

Make ties

1. Take one 38" x 2½" tie strip (from the red sateen) and fold in half to be 19" x 2½".
   
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around both long sides and the folded end. Start at the raw end, stitch down one long side, pivot at the corner, stitch at an angle across folded end, pivot at the corner, and stitch along the remaining long side. Leave the raw edge open.
   
3. Clip off the fabric along the folded edge, following the angle, leaving an approximate ½" seam allowance.
   
4. Turn right side out through the open end. Press.
5. Edgestitch around three sewn sides. Raw end remains open.
   
6. Repeat steps 1 - 5 with the remaining strips to make a total of eight ties. Set aside.

Attach ties to drop panels

1. Find your four drop panels (two sides and two ends)
2. Slide a tie into the open ends of the bands on each panel. Pin in place.
3. Edgestitch all eight in place to secure. Match the edgestitching line on the band to the edgestitching on the drop panel.
   

Attach panels to top

1. Collect your tablecloth top piece and all four of your finished drop panels (2 sides with ties and 2 ends with ties).
2. Thread your machine (top and bobbin) with thread to match the tablecloth top (lemon in our sample).
3. Pin one end drop panel, right sides together, to each end of the tablecloth top, lining up the raw edges and centering to leave ½" on each side.
   
4. Sew a ½" seam. Sew slowly and very carefully; you don't want to catch the ties in the seams when you get close to the corners. Remember to back tack at the beginning and end of each of your seams.
5. In the same manner, pin one side drop panel, right sides together, to each side of the tablecloth top, lining up the raw edges and centering to leave ½" on each side. 
6. Sew a ½" seam. Sew slowly and very carefully; you don't want to catch the ties in the seams or the end panels. Remember to back tack at the beginning and end of each of your seams.
   

The corners

1. In each corner, you'll be able to see a small square of the tablecloth top fabric. This is a raw edged square.
2. At your ironing board, flip the tablecloth to the wrong side, and press this raw edge corner towards the inside of the tablecloth.
   
3. Then press both the side and end seam allowances towards the inside of the tablecloth top. The will cover the raw edge square completely.
   
4. Repeat for remaining three corners.
5. Place on your tablecloth on your table and tie a lovely bow at each corner.
   

Hints and Tips

Substitute ribbons for corner ties

In our sample, we made our own ties for the tablecloth corners because we want the bands and ties to look as if they were one continuous piece. However, you could save a little time by buying satin or grosgrain ribbon, which comes in pre-determined widths and colorful, unique designs. You would need about ½ yard of 1½" wide ribbon per tie or 4 yards total for all eight ties.

To tidy up the end of your ribbons, fold the end on itself twice in ¼" - ½" folds and topstitch for a clean, finished look. You can also cut the ribbon ends at a 45˚ angle and leave them raw. Test a small piece of your ribbon to see if the raw edge comes unraveled. Raveling is especially common with delicate silk and satin ribbons.

Contributors

Project Desgin: Alicia Thommas

Sample Creation: Heather Tucker

Instructions: Liz Johnson, Gregory Dickson

Other machines suitable for this project include the Pfaff Hobby 1132 or the White sew Easy 2335.

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